I figured out the throttle cutout issue. It was the wiring to the ignition, and possibly the run/stop button I use to activate the solenoid. Last week I was set to ride the bike to work and I found myself unable to switch on full power.
The search for THIS problem spanned the entire 12 Volt electrical system - I end ed up re-wiring and labelling most of the wires I installed near the battery box. I also found myself cutting into my harness to find the run/stop button itself was not making consistent contact (via the continuity meter). With that fixed/c leaned, I then noticed no power to the yellow wire from the ignition, and at the ignition I found the yellow wire broken from its soldier mooring.
So I resoldered the wire, but found the big wad of wires under electrical tape was interfering with the dash and looked terrible. It was way too late, but I got annoyed enough to cut out the ugly wad and re-soldier the 7 or 8 wires back into the ignition myself. I also made sure the mechanical tiedowns to the ignition were in place, as it was pretty clear the old-yellow wire had been sheared off.
I installed a new, very loud horn, put the front fairings on again and finally went to bed.
The weeks before, I made a "Coroplast" shield from a "for rent" sign to act as my radiator replacement. It tucks nicely around the lower batteries/cage, and spray painted flat black, its much prettier than the cardboard/ducttape approach.
I also fixed the bracket and added some zip-ties to hold the rear light on more
confidently.
Next stop - get it going again, get it to the shop for fork seals and brakes.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
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