Tronbike 1.2.2 Video, 7/3/2008

Thursday, June 26, 2008

NEW PRICE - $3595!

Someone replying to the ad suggested it seemed pricey. After checking out the spreadsheet and adding
the big parts since Feb, they were correct.

I updated the price to $3595. My total dev cost, including tools, training, licensing, insurance, stands, gear unused materials, screwups/fried parts was $5550.

I am also willing to part out the LEDs and chargers which I can use for my next project if that entices anyone to step up.

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

1991 Kawasaki ZX-11 "C" *ELECTRIC NINJA* (as in EV) "Project" - $4495 (berkeley)

Yes, you read that correctly - its a an electric conversion performed on a very
badass Kawasaki ZX-11 C. Still registered as originally configured motorcycle,
clean title, 35000 miles. 200+ miles on electric only so far. **

The gas motor and parts have been replaced with a
  • Briggs & Stratton E-TEK (15 hp peak electric (DC, hi torque), rated 48V ),
  • 5 AGM 12 volt 55Mah batteries (60 Volts (yes, we are overvolting!) )
  • 5 Soneil 1212SSR fast chargers, optionally removable.
  • Alltrax Controller, 72 Volt 300 Amp Programmable controller
  • Drivechain is still #50 size (but all new)
    • 71 tooth in the rear and 10 up front
    • Have a 12 I've never installed)
  • Custom 1/4 plate steel motor bolted to the original motormounts
  • Huge LED lights (read $$) all around w/new flasher relay and a HID up front
  • Tank has been chopped for weight and access to the plug at the top
  • Acceleration to 30 mph is very quick, BUT speed tops out around 45 with current gearing
  • Range is at least 15 miles (up hills), 20-30 on the flats with lots of spirited stop and go
  • Weight is around 450 lbs, 100 lbs LESS than stock
  • Fairings are in good shape, bike is a great 20 footer
  • All manuals and receipts for bike and parts included
  • Spare ZX-11 parts I've taken off (no motor, tranny or ICE parts anymore)
  • Arai Helmet, new gloves and protective gear available for extra pesos
  • DOES not include custom fuel gauge/PDA software (Contact me if you are interested in more dev work on that portion of the project)
  • Camera mount is on the way for super cool videos of the bike in action
  • Looking for something near the $4500 in parts I added up ;) ***
    • M1 and cash to ride. I will arrange a showing/showings depending on response.

If you are still reading and interested, way to much information is here in my build and test blog and link to YouTube: http://www.tronbikes.com


REASONS for selling:
  • I am ready to build an electric car, I need the space (E30 or E36 BMW trades considered!!)
  • I don't dare make or take this thing any faster, it needs a real rider for further development
  • Does not fit my lifestyle - too close to work w/plenty of parking, I need to haul kids in the rain (may we get some)
So, stick it to the oil princes of your choice (George W & Co or Osama Bin & Co), and look good doing it. Buy this bike or get your friends to.

** I will only sell to someone who demonstrates they know what they are getting into

*** Parting out will be a sorry and last resort, this thing needs to be ridden

**** DON'T hesitate to build your own, its a terrific project

(craigslist ad: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/731787641.html
)

Saturday, June 21, 2008

1.2.2 Declared - A Week of Stable Commuting

I rode Tronbike to work all week after last weekend's teardown.
  • I am getting a bit too comfortable with riding around on a motorcycle. I've added knee/shin and elbow armor to my wardrobe, but in the heat have enjoyed (too much) riding with a sweatshirt. I really should press on with a car project, potentially sell Tronbike and (gulp) the 911 to assist funding and focus.
  • People, particularly other motorcyclists, are taking notice on the road.
  • I like the low "get-away" gearing and not in a rush to upgrade the 13 tooth front sprocket.
  • I spent time hacking on the TBM last night, mostly usability features like "restart", "reset", "suspend".
    • I've ridden all week without a meter. The most useful metric would be full pack voltage, a 2" analog gauge would be perfect for the dash. Second is current and 3rd is odometer (got that).
    • I lost ebay bids on a bluetooth iPaq, but my bigger focus is or should be mounting of the device. I ordered a new cable to overcome the frustrating/vaporized tab on the current cable.
  • A tank-camera mount is on the way. I need to get some more videos up and going to share the love. My silly YouTube video has over 11k kits and counting.
SO, I'm declaring version to be 1.2.2 in honor of the stability improvements!

Monday, June 16, 2008

Debugged, Thoughts on Going Tankless

So after a weekend of charging batteries, finding them discharged and charging some more, Tronbike is
finally rolling fast again. I replaced the 1.5 Amp fuses with 2 Amps which has yet to blow.

I did a test ride without the tank or the chargers onboard. The bike was noticeably zippier, but my knees were a bit lost/unsure where to go. I can imagine staying tankless, putting a big flat sheet of plastic or metal down, or a big suitcase or something very functional. Terrific for Pizza delivery! As it stands, the tank is heavy - 10 lbs or so, and the chargers are another 12, and much area is wasted/functionality lost. 22 lbs was recorded via bathroom scale, thats like 5% of the bike's weight (the weight of a bicycle). Despite the weight, security is pretty good with the stock tank, as its designed to be difficult to get on/off.

We'll see how the commute goes tomorrow.

Friday, June 13, 2008

Debugging Needed...

Back from vacation, I hoped to ride to work today. Instead, I found a disturbing lack of acceleration and studdering of the machine. Less than 40 volts registered on the multi-meter, I found the batteries uncharged despite being plugged in all night.

Rode the bicycle to work, came home to try with charged batteries.

Next problem was blowing a fuse about a block away. I went and did this twice before I believed
I might have a short someplace. Its on the input side, 1.5 amp fuse * 60 V = 90 W. The output side is
fused to 7 amp * 12V = 84 W, so presumably this means the output side is pulling harder causing the input side to fail. A smaller output fuse would/should break before the input side, again if we trust it.

Checking for shorts caused my movement is something to consider as well...