Sprocket, Chargers and Tank Action

Today was Sunday and I got a few hours in the garage:

• The big rear sprocket is mounted and has just enough clearance around the swing-arm. I suspect this was not by accident, and it explains the 71 tooth max - #50 sprockets have a bigger diameter than #40 sprockets, a big "DUH" pointed out to me by John Bidwel (El Ninja) in email after it thankfully worked out for me.
  
• I put the 2 chargers I have on a particle-board cover that bolts like a table to the top of the battery cage. I use zip ties to hold the parts in place. I'll go aluminum with it if it works - I would like to mount the chargers lower, but the ability to pull them off as a unit is appealing, and I will do my wiring to allow convenient disconnection from the chargers to allow this.
• I washed out the tank with soap, took off the tank hardware and started to try cutting out the bottom. I am doing this to save weight, provide more clearance and do something clever with the hole in the tank - maybe a big e-meter guage or extension cord housing or something. Cutting the tank is really tough with my little hacksaw blade holder, I need to call up Brian with the sawzall and angle grinder.
  
• While looking for ideas for efficiently cutting a motorcycle gas tank, I ran across ads for "Tech Shop" and "The Crucible", places that offer machine shop/welding classes. Tech Shop takes it to a whole new level by providing access like a gym membership or something, would be quite handy if they were not in Menlo Park. Looks like the Crucible set a World Speed Record with a Diesel Motorcycle.
  
• An updated picture of the battery cage. Notice the cross bracing and top rails.

M1 Licensed, Parts Incoming, X-Prize Signup

The week's bike progress went haywire due to my little son's emergency hospital stay, but its all going forward:

• I got my California M1 license in the mail today - Yipee!
• I received 2 of the chargers, the front sprocket, chain from Applied Industrial Technoloy and a chain tool via e-bay this week.
• Last weekend I got the rear wheel off and new sprocket on after a huge amount of cleaning.
  
• Once clean, I am reading about specific torques and loc-tite to do this right so more stuff ordered. I will slip the wheel on and check tighness when the wrench arrives.
• I have a date with www.electromotorsport to get my motor and parts lined up.
• The motor mount plate is to be done early next week.

My older son is pestering about going to the moon, which led me to the lunar X-Prize (and I am building a team for that) and I signed a ;letter of intent to compete for the Automotive X-Prize for effiency while visiting.

Mounting the Batteries - Pictures

I am using 1-1/4 by 1-1/4 plated 18 gauge "L" channel steel to build a structure to hold the batteries in
the previous engine compartment. I am using a piece of 1"x1" square steel as the anchor point between
the new motor area (see big round thing = motor mockup) and the rear of the battery frame.

Erector set style, I connect the pieces up. The original subframe has a cross piece that I try to leverage to hold a battery. Note I needed to create a system of little "L" brackets to keep the batteries from sloshing around.



The batteries are UB12550, about 40 lbs each. I plan to use 5 for 60 volts, each is rated at 55 Amp-hour capacity. I will mount them sideways, terminals starboard side to
be wired up. I am starting with 2 actual batteries for fitment and until I get everything running.



One thing I learned quickly is that the batteries are not exactly square. They widen to towards the top, tapering below. Also, the terminal location interferes with my use of the "L" channel - notice how parts had to be cut out to make space for the terminals.

To create more structure to connect the subframe to the top, I put some L channel across the wide
top of the frame. Here is a view from the seat area.


Note in this picture the addition of extra cross-bracing, using 2"x12 gauge plated steel. This is strong,
heavy stuff, used by "El Ninja"'s creator. I used a big piece UNDER the subframe to reinforce the battery rack under the 80 lbs load directly above.

Big unknowns/risks are trying to actually run wires to the terminals, and getting tie downs in place to
hold the batteries down.

In other news

• Ordered a big rear sprocket from sprocketspecialists.com
• Ordered 2 Soniel 1212SR 5 amp chargers for onboard mounting
• Received my DL389 in the mail, I need to take the DMV written tests.
  

Passed the MSF Requirements - 1 DMV Test Left...

I spent the weekend learning how to safely operate a motorcycle via the MSF (Motorcycle Safety Foundation) program endorsed by the CHP (California Highway Patrol). On day 1 I aced the written test, day 2 I went from never starting a motorcycle to riding around, shifting gears and panic stopping. Pretty amazing progress, the course was really regimented and well designed to get people riding. The MSF is sponsored by all the motorcycle manufacturers, so they are motivated to get people up and going, no doubt. Day 3 was doing figure 8's in a tight box, cornering, more braking and swerving, followed by a final evaluation. On the final, you get points for screw ups and are allowed 20 - I got 16 points across the 3 events. Outside the box once, too long in the brake zone, not shifting to 1st after braking were the offenses (the last was 10 points alone). The damn shifting and transmission on motorcycles was my biggest nemesis for the weekend - getting into neutral and missing shifts from 1st to 2nd were my biggest hangups for the course. Covering the brake bicycle style was my worst habit. The maneuvering and even counter-steering is all bicycle (to my relief) and familiar, curving and taking lines was all auto-x braking and head turning.

So I am on the path to getting a license, one little DMV test away. I'm by no means competent, its a very physical activity - its like downhill skiing is to XC, its what windsurfing is to sailing, its really a different deal requiring a lot more skill, attention and even practice than even I expected. The whole traffic/death thing is out there too, but not unfamiliar given the bicycling. I should talk with my cyclist/motorbiker people on that front.

I do need to focus on the task at hand is to build an EV, not be an awesome motorcycle rider, which is too cool, and a potential distraction and likely impossible (remember bump-skiing I say, thinking of the skiis in Pete's basement!).

I am humbled, but excited because in my Tronbike, I leave the shifting behind. Inspired, I made big progess on the battery cage last night with a new infusion of steel and bolts, and found a machine shop to cut my mount properly.

Registration and Insurance

I registered the Ninja before I went on vacation and already got the new title. It cost my $145 and included a nasty-gram regarding that they check for insurance status on vehicles, and will void the registration if insurance is lacking.

So I called my insurance agent and was told its about $100-$300 to insure, so he suggests putting it in as non-operational until its all working because they only sell insurance to functioning vehicles. I'm not sure I am able to go non-op until my next registration is due, or its voided.

Going through the DMV site I might want to add "hi-voltage" safety messaging to the machine. No special credits for electric conversions, though I may try to hog up some ZEV and parking stickers.

Mounting the Batteries

I am going for a 60 volt system, 5 12 volt 22NF AGM batteries, model UB12550 specifically. Each weighs about 40 lbs, resulting in a 200lb pack. Oof.

I found a source in Louisianna via EBay that sells 2 at a time. I am starting out with 2 until its definitely all working. I also have a digital charger now via Target, thanks to my car battery dying when I was out of town for 2 weeks.

I went with plated L channel material (1.25 x 1.25 16 gauge) with predrilled holes, allowing me to go "erector set" to build a box in which to hang the batteries. I am concerned about the bolt heads getting in the way, I might need to get screws and/or rounded heads.

I predict I will be adding much cross strapping when the full 200lbs
of batteries is installed. I am also concerned about the battery terminals accidentally contacting the box frame.