I wired up the solenoid - basically a big relay that I activate using the motor "RUN-STOP" switch. RUN position activates the solenoid by passing in 12 volts, which then closes the connection for the 60 volt pack. Radio Shack had the 1N1004 Diode to install across the activation leads. Seems to work.
My DC-DC converter isn't working with only 24 volts, so I am cheating by running a wire to one of the batteries to act as the "common ground" for the accessories. Its in the original battery box, as is a fuse holder/fuse and a bolt acting as a terminal for accessories using common ground.
I have the big green neutral light wired to activate on switch powerup and ignition, the other lights like oil and fuel trigger relays that flash and click a lot. If I want to use these, I will need to go into the cluster directly.
I tidied up the wiring with zip-ties, ran the throttle wire and removed the choke cable and lever. I took off the passenger pegs to save weight and improve access, especially to the rear brake light switch that needs attention.
For kicks I put the front fairing on. The turn signals are wired backwards and the headlight does not appear to be working. The headlight has a relay that I am not hearing (yet). The turn signals appear to have dual filaments and turn on now with ignition, one more current draw to remedy, a LED application might be in order. Doing something with the headlight would be nice too, its old-school halogen. Keeping all lights off unless needed and then painting the bike day-glow yellow for attention is my long term plan.
Biggest roadblock now is mounting the motor controller. I need to cut out the tank bottom to make space, I am hesitant to mount anything until I am positive there will be space, but I guess I should just install and assume its going to move no matter what.
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